Sunday Mass

Statistics show that 98% of Poles are Catholic. Sunday morning, as we took an early drive, church bells began to ring. Parish priests (see photo) signaled folks when it was about 1/2 hour before Mass would begin. On cue, in suits and their best dresses, people began walking to services. Families and friends, young and old, together celebrated their faith.



Arriving 15 minutes early in Boleslawiec, at the Cathedral, we managed to find a seat. All pews, chairs and standing room spaces were taken by opening song. Two young, parish priests led Mass, which was overflowing with prayer and music. (Sister Mary Poland, in habit and veil, scurried earlier to check up on altar boys)






Many stopped for ice cream cone treats as they began strolling home. Like us, they probably do not have a freezer in their frig! Life is tough across the pond, no ice either!

More About Poland

Visiting eastern European countries is especially interesting as one sees what is; imagines what was, when gazing at big, old, tattered structures; and wonders what will be when looking at a poor society in a globally stressed world.


Boleslawiec town square still held some of the majesty of past days with buildings up to 4oo years old surrounding it. Homes and farm buildings bore scars of repression under Communist rule. Since 1992 Poland has seen gains for its people, however as we walked Saturday's market, clear signs of a meager lifestyle surfaced. Root vegetables (beets, potatoes, carrots, etc.) dominated vendor stalls. Instead of selling fresh flowers, merchants stocked endless varieties of silk petals.




Village Kliczkow (except for its restored castle, where we slept Saturday evening) was poor. Almost all residents had two things; a chicken coop and unleashed, not very cute, barking hound! (not sure if this was for safety or to annoy others) As night approached, billowing smoke was coming from chimneys, residents were burning garbage. Yuck!






Kliczkow Castle was a delight! Built in 1287 and restored in 2001, the property included a gourmet restaurant, three terraces, stables, spa and beautiful woods around it. It was a great place to kick back and relax, take a siesta listening to chirping birds! (barking mutts were unwelcomed)

Tom's Pottery Adventure

Boleslawiec Poland is four hours from Bamberg. The town of ceramics is world famous, located in the southwest, near Silesian forests. I only had to beg a bit for for him to go with. Forty factories are in and around the community of 20,000 residents. When imported to the States, the pottery is pricey (Schumacher's gift shop stocked some), but not at a factory outlet!

Friday we stayed at Hotel Protea, designed after a hunting lodge, with wild boar as wall decoration. A couple of blocks away was pottery heaven.

Our room was next to that of four Army wives from Heidelberg who were excited to shop! And shop some more! They were squealing with delight around midnight, returning after some wine and bargain finds!



One over excited woman got up at 5:20 a.m. to shower (loud pipes and thin walls) and got ready for the breakfast buffet opening at 6:45 so she could be at the 7:00 opening bell of shops. Tom was not happy!



I shopped for two hours, at three outlets, while he read magazines and drank Coke. He didn't honk once for me to hurry up.

A girl can never have too much pottery. The plates, mugs and beautiful serving trays will provide fond memories once we're back in a home somewhere near you soon!

Spring is Here!

Spring in Bamberg is a beautiful time.
(double click on photos to enlarge)


Daily Rain in winter produces many blossoms (and pollen).





Home located just up the street on the old river locks.

Michelsburg- a favorite photo subject.












Regnitz River Reflection














The Hain - Bamberg's Central Park











Schillerplatz Magnolia















And Beer Gardens Are Open

Cuckoo! Cuckoo!

Astonishing beauty is what attracted us back to the Black Forest for the second weekend in a row. We continue to try to "get there" before buses of tourists do. Also, both of us decided, we needed a cuckoo clock as a memory of this year. (Sort of describes making a decision in less than two weeks to sell your house and move to Germany.)




Our handmade walnut clock features only a cuckoo bird. It was purchased in a Triberg co-op managed by area mastercarvers, intent on keeping their craft, history and culture respected. The birthplace of the clock was Schonwald (Black Forest) over 200 years ago.


Shopkeepers educate everyone that steps foot in their door about "the facts" of handmade versus mass produced, knock off clocks. No one who carves a clock stamps "Made in Germany" on the clock's forehead we were told. (good point) An enchanting shop and experience to be in it.





The same shop also had four rooms above for rent. We had a good night's sleep upstairs in the cabin. For supper we dined at the local "Tick Tock Stube"










Freiburg, known as a university town, is the most beautiful city we have toured in Germany. The large old town has been artistically preserved; Halle Market, unique shops, cathedrals, and cafes all impressed us.








"Das Ferienland" (The Holiday Land), as the Black Forest section is called, was a countryside drive rich in unspoiled nature. I'm gearing up to make my first Black Forest Torte, so another sampling was necessary. As I studied pastry, taste and appearance, Tom tried to steal a few bites. Nein!






Even sitting outside,
on a rainy Saturday afternoon is beautiful
when smelling the fresh,
healthy air of spring.

Is It True? Is It As Good As They Say?

Less than 24 hours after returning from the Black Forest, a gourmet eater e-mailed wondering about this torte, that has a reputation all over the world, as fantastic. I will pretend I'm a food critic and give my opinion after two samplings of the sweet.



It definitely gets a 10 for curb appeal. Three layers of a relatively light chocolate cake ground the pastry. Two layers of whipped cream make it "to die for". And six to seven tablespoons of kirschwasser (kirsch) combined with sour cherries compose a layer of magic. Grated chocolate and cherries decorate the torte's top.



Taste rating was also a 10, but I must warn you! Some recipes suggest subbing cherry jam for kirsch. "Nein"! The cake needs the moisture of the liqueur or it could be dry.

My concerns making this treat are: I don't have a springform pan here, (the cake is cut into layers) my fine motor skills are questionable, (should I buy a pan I might use only once and disappoint myself at the same time?), and it's not served with ice cream so I couldn't hide my Leaning Tower of Torte.



A well bred German Frau would serve "Scharzwalder Kirschtorte" with a proper cup of coffee on a table set with her best dessert plates and a small floral centerpiece enhancing decor. Commonly a big piece of torte is sliced and presented to guests. After taking a good sized bite, exclaim, "sehr gut"! (very good) and smile.

At cafes, which is where I savored the torte, waiters also ask the big question, "Do you like it?"

Since I've got the time (lots of it) I think I'll walk downtown tomorrow to purchase a pan.( I can give the pan to Simon if I screw it up when he visits with Gretchen) If I don't succeed there are also excellent bakeries. (every two blocks Bamberg has one, most quite good)

Ostersonnatag Halleluja!

Happy Easter ! Especially to Gretchen & Simon and P.J. & Sara, we hope you're enjoying your share of chocolate and jelly beans! (Tom purchased some Peeps, thinking they were my favorite! I have finer tastes than sticky marshmellow treats, whether they are yellow or pink. Once a year is plenty!)



We spent a weekend in the Black Forest area of Germany (southwestern). The landscape is the most impressive we've seen in the country. Before they leave Switzerland in May, and relocate to Colorado, we celebrated our friendship with 10th Avenue friends, Mark and Alli.





Easter morning Mass in Furtwangen featured talented musicians; five violins, two cellos, a trumpet, organ and choir. Their selections inspired a wonderful service. Even though we still don't know much German, a sense of joy was felt worshiping with parish members.

Last Call , I Mean Stop!

Munich was final stop with our guests. The metropolis is considered Germany's most cosmopolitan and popular city. Home of the world's largest folk festival, "Octoberfest" and also home of "The Hofbrauhaus" . I'm not sure which is more famous, their beer or food. (group vote on that, please)






After watching the glockenspiel strike 11:00 and clock figurines dance on the Marienplatz, off we headed for an early lunch.









Since 1654 beer has been brewed on site. A large hall seats 1,000 guests on first floor. 1,300 guests can be accommodated on second floor. In a courtyard, surrounded by chestnut trees, a beer garden seats hundreds of diners also.







Music, by a four piece band, began as lunch was served. A festive mood quickly took over the hofbrauhaus as we devoured more wurst and kraut. People watching was especially touching. A table of ten elderly gentlemen ate, drank, bonded, and then got up, hugged and patted each other on the back, returning their steins to the proper position in the storage locker. (just like one stores their golf clubs)

Returning to Bamberg (a little over two hours north) we unwound. Enough of that
German food! Pizza and salad looked good on the menu!

Auf wiedersehen dear friends!

Buon Giorno and Arrivederci

Innsbruck is only 30 miles north of the Italian border, so when you're that close, it wouldn't be right not to showcase another culture for friends. Saturday's schedule included pit stops in both Trento and Bolzano.


Laid back, unhurried and relaxed describe Italy's people. Soaking the sun up at plaza cafes, with a beverage and/or good food, seemed to be national hobbies; so when in Italy, do as the Italians do! Fresco paintings and stylish balconies were highlights of buildings. Walking shoulder to shoulder with locals lets you peek at their lifestyle.

Austria and Germany do not have many beggars, sadly Italy does. I tend to have a weak spot for these people. Tom took a photo of two darling boys, who knew how to work crowds well. (thankfully their buddies did not pickpocket us!)

Innsbruck Austria

Located in the heart of the Alps, Innsbruck is a place one never forgets visiting. A rare charm, combining city and nature. Our time spent here was well worth it. Beautiful snow capped mountains and blue sky supplied the canvas.






Sunday (Palm Sunday) we participated in a procession celebrating the coming of spring and marking the beginning of Holy Week. Austrians invited us tourists to join them journeying down one of Europe's most
awesome pathways, Maria-Theresien Strasse. Church bells
and chimes from all over Innsbruck greeted people as the procession entered St. James Cathedral.





An Easter market began after services. One could purchase a bit of spring to take home. Cups of cappucino (and one Coke) were sipped at a lovely outdoor cafe on the plaza. Sunshine, the impact of a well done religious ceremony, and fellowship; life does not get any better! We all were aware of that and appreciated the moment (very much)!

A Taste of Europe

With warm sunshine on our shoulders, the six of us- Dirk, Darbie, Karen, Terry, the chauffeur (Tom) and tour director (Katie) vacationed a week, enjoying bits of Germany, Austria and Italy. Our New Prague friends had expressed interest in seeing castles, countryside, concerts, cathedrals, cows, cloisters, cities and clowns. So we did just that!

Arriving by train to Bamberg (following a flight to Frankfurt) the chauffeur picked up the travelers at the "bahnhof". After a pretzel snack, the tour guide led an evening outing, walking and then dining at a "gasthaus" on traditional German fare (bratwurst, kraut etc.) Burp!
Thursday's schedule included shopping, people watching and a trip to an "eis cafe".



A quick drive up to Banz Abbey finished out the day with fantastic landscape and more local cooking.



Packed and on the road by 8:30 Friday morning we headed to Rothenburg. The well known walled city is preserved with a Middle Ages atmosphere. Many buildings date back to the 13th and 14th century. A photographer's delight! (How many pictures did Tom take?)





Bavarian Prince Ludwig II ordered two amazing castles to be built near Fussen in southern Germany. The "Neuschanstein schloss" (nicknamed Disney castle) is the more famous of the two. Hopping out, we admired the structures and hiked a bit in the fresh, spring mountain air.